Imagine deliberately injuring your skin with thousands of tiny punctures—and having it reward you for it. It sounds paradoxical, but that’s exactly the principle behind microneedling. Find out below whether it’s a hit or a trap, and whether you can do it at home in your bathroom.
What is microneedling?
Microneedling is a procedure in which tiny needles create small punctures in the skin. The skin responds to this disruption by triggering processes involved in healing and tissue renewal. It is most commonly used on the face, but can also be used on the scalp, where it is being studied as a way to support hair growth, or on other parts of the body, for example, to treat stretch marks and scars (Hou et al., 2017; Litchman et al., 2022).
What are the effects of microneedling?
Potential benefits include reducing fine lines, diminishing acne scars and stretch marks, evening out skin tone, reducing dark spots, and improving the skin’s elasticity, firmness, and overall texture.
Collagen production
Microneedling is used, among other things, to help support collagen production. Collagen helps maintain the skin’s firmness and structure. Several studies have reported increases in markers associated with collagen and elastin production after treatment (El-Domyati et al., 2015; Wamsley et al., 2021).
As with many other things, consistency is important. You may not see results right after your first session, because changes in the skin develop gradually. Microneedling is therefore usually performed as a series of treatments, typically spaced several weeks apart.
Microneedling at home and its risks
On social media, you can see people doing microneedling themselves at home with a pen. It may look simple, but home use carries risks. If used incorrectly, it can irritate or injure the skin, cause infection or scarring, or lead to changes in pigmentation. Choosing the wrong needle depth and inadequate sterilization are also risks.
Why does your choice of serum matter?
Microneedling also makes it easier for substances to penetrate the skin, because the tiny punctures create a pathway deeper below the surface (Hou et al., 2017). This means more of whatever you apply can get into your skin—for better or worse. That’s why there are serums specifically formulated for microneedling. You can’t just use the regular serum you have at home, because some products may irritate compromised skin.
Dermapen, dermaroller, or dermastamp?
For at-home microneedling, people more often use a dermaroller or dermastamp. These devices are not electric and are operated by hand, so you have to guide their movement yourself. Hygiene is another important difference. With a Dermapen, the needle cartridge is discarded after each treatment and replaced with a new, sterile one. Dermarollers and dermastamps have fixed needles, so they are used repeatedly. They therefore need to be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected after every use and replaced regularly, as the needles become dull over time. If you don’t clean the device properly, the risk of infection increases.
Microneedling at home vs. in a clinic
The difference is the needle length. At-home devices usually have shorter needles, which penetrate only the outer layers of the skin. Clinics use longer needles, ranging from about 0.5 to 2 mm (Litchman et al., 2022).
It’s also important to know that different needle depths are suitable for different areas of the face, such as the cheeks, forehead, or chin. A professional must therefore assess your skin’s thickness and choose the right depth; otherwise, they could cause harm.
Who should avoid microneedling?
Microneedling isn’t for everyone. You should avoid it if you have active acne, a cold sore or another infection in the treatment area, eczema or psoriasis, a tendency to develop keloid scars, or a weakened immune system. Caution is also advised for people taking blood thinners (Minutilli, 2024; Litchman et al., 2022).
How to care for your skin after microneedling
After treatment, it’s normal for your skin to be red, slightly swollen, or flaky for a few days (Litchman et al., 2022). It may also be more sensitive to sunlight and skincare products. That’s why it’s important to protect it from the sun with SPF 50+ sunscreen. While your skin heals, also avoid smoking, which can slow the healing of skin wounds. If you develop pus-filled bumps, scabs, pain, or worsening redness, see a dermatologist.
One way to support the results is to incorporate red light, which also supports collagen production (Lee et al., 2007). The difference is that it works non-invasively and can be used at home. Red light is also being studied for its potential effects on skin healing, so it could be an interesting addition after microneedling.
Conclusion
If you decide to try microneedling at home, carefully research the proper technique and potential risks beforehand. Make sterilization a priority. If used incorrectly, the risks may outweigh the potential benefits. If you’re looking for a safer at-home skincare option that may support collagen production, take a look at red light therapy.
Sources
El-Domyati M, et al. Multiple microneedling sessions for minimally invasive facial rejuvenation: an objective assessment. International Journal of Dermatology. 2015;54(12):1361–1369. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijd.12761
Wamsley CE, et al. A Single-Center Trial to Evaluate the Efficacy and Tolerability of Four Microneedling Treatments on Fine Lines and Wrinkles of Facial and Neck Skin in Subjects With Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-IV: An Objective Assessment Using Noninvasive Devices and 0.33-mm Microbiopsies. Aesthetic Surgery Journal. 2021;41(11):NP1603–NP1618. https://doi.org/10.1093/asj/sjab052
Lee SY, et al. A prospective, randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blinded, and split-face clinical study on LED phototherapy for skin rejuvenation. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B. 2007;88(1):51–67. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2007.04.008
Hou A, et al. Microneedling: A Comprehensive Review. Dermatologic Surgery. 2017;43(3):321–339. https://doi.org/10.1097/DSS.0000000000000924
Minutilli E. Microneedling for Treatment of Acne Scars: Considerations on the Successful Management of This Aesthetic Procedure. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2024;23(3):e79.
Litchman G, Nair PA, Badri T, Kelly SE. Microneedling. StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; updated September 26, 2022. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK459344/